The End of Throw Away Fashion?

There have been many articles written about the rising prices of cotton, upcoming inflation and how it will effect clothing prices. The NY Times recently discussed how consumers are holding on to products longer and making them last. PSFK linked an article from The Telegraph about factories in China slowing down denim production because of an increase in wages, government restrictions and rising cost of cotton. As someone who's slightly addicted to cheap clothing, I thought this was an interesting issue. I have trouble stomaching a huge, one time purchase that I can just as likely stain, rip, or wear out on my lengthy walks throughout whatever city I'm in, as cheap clothing. And yet, it's quite possible that I spend just as much a year on clothing as my designer-brand-loving counterparts. I recognize that having two of the same shirt in different colors and a $15 beaded t-shirt from Forever 21 isn't helping anyone. I've lived on two suitcases worth of clothing for the last three months and have survived happily. In fact, I plan on donating or selling clothing before I head back to New York. There's something to be said about having less stuff.But where does this leave marketers? How will our consumption driven society cope with people spending less? Companies will have to emphasize the quality and timelessness of their clothing over having the latest styles. I went to the Garden State Plaza mall recently and was blown away by how many copycat, cheap clothing stores had opened since the last time I was there. Despite the recession, the Garden State, 30 minutes away from Manhattan, has actually expanded to include a movie theater, a multitude of new retail and restaurant spaces and has gone both upscale and downscale - if that were possible. Personally, I for one, do not want to support an economy based on disposable goods of every type and believe that smart retailers who buck that trend, will adjust and prosper.

In fact, I do remember a time before H&M and Forever 21 when teenage style was driven by reasonably priced Express, oversized, vintage flannel shirts and once per season shopping trips. We're becoming an ADD society where in addition to having a constant stream of information thrown at us, we're also constantly tempted to purchase new stuff. I predict a backlash against overconsumption, being overly informed and hyper-connected.

Does Sex Sell? A look at A&F

I've spent the last few days at my parent's house, going through all my worldly possessions and trying to get rid of things I don't use. I can proudly say I have three bags of clothing to donate on top of the two huge bags I donated a few months ago. I digress.

For years, I've had two racy Abercrombie & Fitch catalogs that I've been meaning to sell on eBay but can't remember the last time I actually looked through them. One was purchased the year I graduated high school, and then next, the year I graduated college. They definitely upped the ante for the 2003 version. I flipped through them with a perspective of someone who's lived in NYC for 5 years (i.e. have seen it all) and have worked in the photo industry, etc. etc. They still shocked me even in the world of True Blood, celebrities showing their vaginas and overt sexuality everywhere. There's no question that the Bruce Weber photographs are beautiful and sexy - but seriously, are they at all appropriate given A&F's target market? This year they've brought the catalogs back. Using overt sexuality and nudity to sell clothing to teenagers just seems lazy but this doesn't surprise me considering the clothing lacks imagination as well. I have a skirt that looks exactly like one of their skirts shown on their website - except it's in a garbage bag to be donated and is Gap circa 2007. And plaid? Really? A quick google search of A&F and the banned catalog revealed that their stock fell at the end of 2003. 

So hopefully I'm not being a total hypocrite by giving ya'll a taste of what I'm talking about but let's be honest - sex sells. I'd say these are NSFW but I'm assuming all of you are out for Labor Day weekend. Here's to America! And our labor force!

I kind of wonder if Ryan McGinley didn't just flip through a A&F catalog before he went out shooting. He's got that whole - beautiful, naked people running through the woods thing going at least. If you'd like to see more of these images, (and believe me, there are more) you can purchase the catalogs via eBay here and here. The 2003 version has a lot more nudity but the 1999 version is just as beautifully shot with interviews, etc. It was hard to let them go but I need to pay for things like - oh.. Miami Ad School, a new computer, living.. you get the idea.