Tulum Travels

I really lucked out with my resort choices on the beaches of Tulum. The resorts along the beach are much more expensive than those in town and need to be booked in advance during key vacation times. On my first night, I stayed in Uno Astro Lodge, at the advice of some random girl I met in Playa Del Carmen. It's not well known by the cab drivers and I wasn't even able to find it on Google Maps, but for those trying to find it - it's one resort North of Ahau Tulum. Aside from the location being absolutely stunning, I got a fantastic deal - they put me in one of the artists' tents because everything else was booked. I didn't have electricity and had to share a bathroom that was outside - but for $70 a night, that was a small price to pay for such a special place.

The hotel is perfect for yoga, meditation, or anyone interested in a having a bit more spiritual self-reflection while sunning themselves on the beach. The crowd was a mix of hippie artists, yoga instructors, New Yorkers, a young student on an extended trip, German families.. quite a range but generally those who are fairly zen and free-spirited.

I only spent one night there but felt my entire being shift to a more relaxed state during my stay. I'm not exaggerating when I say it's a magical place. There's a peacock named Phoenix who likes looking at himself in the mirror regularly (self reflection?), free-spirited children running around - enthralled by the ocean rather than their electronic devices, and regular meditation sessions led by the resort.

I met two women, both named Alison and both living in Williamsburg (weird) but otherwise, kept to myself. There was really no pressure to become part of any of the activities or talk to those around you. And the actual beach was equally free-spirited. Technically, it's illegal to go topless or skinny dip in Mexico (Catholic country), but according to the internet, rules along the Tulum beaches have relaxed with an influx of Italian tourists over the years, accustomed to topless bathing. Along the beach near my resort, there were a few who went topless (me included), and one guy who jumped into the water naked but had his bathing suit nearby. I still regret not doing the same.

While I felt off the grid, I didn't feel lonely or disconnected. Rather than stress over figuring out life's meaning or my high purpose, I was able to just be. Feel the white sand under my feet, the sun on my body, hear nothing other than the waves. Ironically, my wifi connection was excellent - better than any other place I stayed. There's something surreal about checking Facebook while in a candle-lit tent, listening to the guy next to you play his guitar. Of course at some point, I turned my computer off and read a book.

But if I was there longer, I could see myself finally tackling the better part of my novel. Their breakfast is well-known and according to the manager, Nicole Kidman once ate there. I took a yoga class in the morning which turned into a private lesson for only $15.

They have a beautiful covered, outdoor space which they use for various classes, ranging from meditation to African dance. The yoga instructor was excellent and the setting might have ruined me for all future yoga classes in New York City. I also explored other hotels and shops within a ten minute walk from the resort. There's one, long road which features shops, trendy restaurants and other resorts. While they mostly featured clothing and gifts native to Mexico, there were also a few upscale stores reminiscent of Nolita in their selection and clientele.

There is no question that I will visit Uno Astro Lodge again.

On Mexican Time

According to my mother, my first word was "Hola." I have a long history with Mexico, despite the fact that my skin practically glows in the sun and I barely learned any more Spanish than the above. My grandparents retired in San Miguel de Allende and every year for ten years, my family would make the 10-plus hour journey to San Miguel. First a 5-6 hour plane ride to Mexico City, and then a 3 hour car ride from there. While I was always jealous of friends whose grandparents were a short car ride or flight away, the experience of visiting Mexico was truly priceless. I remember the smell, the tastes (sour tamarinds), the feel of walking on cobblestones. The site of donkeys walking alongside old VW Bugs. Walking underneath the covered outdoor walkway that separated my grandparent's kitchen and living room - and the thrill of doing that during a thunderstorm.

So when I arrived in Tulum after Playa Del Carmen, I finally started feeling like I was in Mexico. I got off the bus and dragged my suitcase across a two-lane road towards a cafe sign that said wifi. The coffee and company was good but the wifi was not. Twenty minutes into my arrival, Mike, an expat from Florida and recent owner of a clothing-optional resort, introduced himself to me and offered to help me find a hostel for the night. And then I met Cody, another expat, who called himself a treasure-hunter-pirate, a horticulturist, wise in the medicinal properties of plants. He proudly listed the various children he had living in the States, one being a porn star, and gave me a number if I wanted to reach him.

At the advice of Mike, I walked a few blocks to the nearest hostel, which might be so new that I still can't find the website. For $40, I had my own room and bathroom and two beds - more than I needed and at a price I didn't mind paying. I showered and set off into the town.

Tulum is incredibly easy to navigate. It's one long strip with most shops on one side and I can imagine side streets that will continue to get built up as the town gains popularity. Perpendicular to the main street is the road to the beach – which is either a ten-minute cab ride or twenty to thirty minute bike ride depending on which beach you’re headed to. Tulum is definitely a hippie enclave, a stark contrast from Cancun and the outdoor American mall that Playa Del Carmen has become. On the main street, you’ll find plenty of inexpensive trinkets from woven and beaded bracelets to hats and sarongs. I didn’t do any research on food before heading out and could have probably found cheaper, better choices but the portions were satisfying, and food was both fresh and affordable.

 While exploring the town, I ran into Cody and a young Mexican woman who according to Cody, was from the mountains. He proclaimed, in English, that he wanted to put a baby in her because she was so beautiful, but couldn’t because she already has one growing inside her. After letting me photograph her, she asked for my name so she could find me on Facebook. Facebook isn’t going away anytime soon and we should be glad. It’s truly a gift to be able to connect with people from all over the world with such ease and get a glimpse into someone else’s life – even if that just means only browsing their feed occasionally.

I spent the rest of the evening hanging out in the lounge area in my hostel, searching for hotels near the beach. While there, I met a Canadian couple who advised me to stay in town and bike to the beach to save money, but I had my heart set on having a more relaxing vacation. After an hour or so of searching with no luck, I finally typed in the name of a resort that was given to me by a Colombian girl while sitting in Starbucks while in Playa Del Carmen. I was in luck – they had one room left and within my price range.

TRAVEL TIPS:

Don’t be afraid to strike up a conversation with anyone in a café or hotel-common area. I found throughout my trip that the advice of a stranger regarding where to stay saved me hours of research on the internet.

Most places have fairly reliable wifi but oftentimes only in the common areas because the signal can’t penetrate the thick, Mexican, stone walls. This can be annoying when going outside at night means battling mosquitos but on the bright side, you're likely to meet people.

Bring mosquito repellant – preferably natural, because many parts of the Yucatan, especially Tulum, are extremely eco-conscious, encouraging travelers to bring biodegradable shower products.  

Speaking of eco-conscious, in most parts of Tulum, you can't throw your toilet paper in the toilet and need to put it in the trash. This is weird at first but based on my experience and others through Trip Advisor, it surprisingly doesn't smell since the garbage is taken out daily.

Getting Warmer - NYC to Riviera Maya

It's been a strange few weeks for me. After an awesome six month run, my freelance with JWT ended at the end of January. It was a fantastic experience - I met smart people and got the experience of working for a "big traditional" agency. I also contributed to two major new business wins (Google Enterprise and PUMA). And then was hired to work at JWT Inside - their employee engagement agency for one project. But then last Thursday, it was my last day - except there's always the possibility I could come back for another stint. So kind of a weird - goodbye but maybe not goodbye.While I was trying to tie up any loose ends, finish my project, say my maybe goodbyes, etc. my friend messaged me on Tuesday saying she's in Playa Del Carmen - I should visit. It just so happens that I'm on my other friend's flight benefits since his sister just had a baby and isn't likely to travel but I've barely used them - other than U.S. flights. The weather was really starting to wear on me.. even this charming couple on the Upper East dressed like they never left the 1970's or the East 70's wasn't enough to keep my spirits up in the cold.

Fast forward to Saturday morning at 4am - I drag my suitcase ten minutes to the subway in 25 degree weather wearing a light fall jacket and manage to check in literally three minutes before they close checkins on international flights. My adventure has gotten off to a great start. The flight is full with one standby seat available and the guy who had priority decided to take a later flight. I wish him all the love and karma in the world.

I sit next to a couple pushing 80 - both with some major hearing loss. I know this because they speak so loudly that even the guy across the isle with the noise-canceling headphones can hear them and gives me a sympathetic laugh. But I can't complain as I imagine my bare feet dipping into the sand. The couple wisely advises me not to study or think too hard and to get some sun. I greatly respect the wisdom of my elders.

The crowd at Cancun makes for some interesting people-watching. Retirees going on group trips, quickly changing into warm-weather clothing. I learn that nothing gets more friendly attention in Mexico than a single woman. If I had stayed any longer at the map booth - I would have received a proposal.

TRAVEL TIP: Take the Ado bus to Playa Del Carmen or even Tulum. It runs fairly frequently (I only had to wait a half hour) and only costs about $10 vs. the $70 for a car service. I realized I made the right choice when I was the only non-Spanish speaker on the bus.

I arrived in Playa Del Carmen with only a vague idea of where my friend's apartment was and a meeting time but it was incredibly easy to figure everything out. Playa basically has one main road that doesn't allow cars and goes for about a mile or less. You feel like you're walking in a huge outdoor mall. I dragged my suitcase over the cobblestone streets wearing a black t-shirt, jeans and sneakers in the 80 degree heat and easily located my friend by using one of the three Starbucks' wifi. I suppose there are some benefits of globalization.. I'm also pretty sure that the main drag had more free wifi than all of NYC.

The above is how I felt after squishing my feet into the sand. After two days and nights in Playa walking around what I felt was not really Mexico - more like South Beach / the Jersey shore, I decided it was time for me to check out Tulum. On Monday, after kicking around the idea of leaving on Tuesday - I decided why wait - saw that the bus was leaving in an hour, packed and sweated my way to the bus station. A 45 minute bus ride has led to a world of difference.

As I write this, I'm sitting in a hostel in Tulum, chilling with a Canadian couple and young Guatemalan, getting tips on what to see and do. This -after meeting a guy who owns a clothing-optional resort and horticulturist who can grow and identify about every plant / herb that's ever been used for.. medicinal purposes and seems to be an expert in native medicine.

On to the next chapter. There's a word for this... YOLO.

Another Beautiful Saturday

And while we're on the subject of photos that make me happy, this picture was taken of me while I was in Mexico. My grandparents retired in San Miguel De Allende and we visited about every year until I was about 10 years old. I love the perspective. I have no idea who took this - either my grandfather, mother or father - all with considerable photographic talents. I still have that bathing suit and shoes. Does it surprise you at all that it is purple?